JOYEUX NOËL ET BONNE ANNEE

I wish all my customers, followers and well-wishers a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year! Thank you for your custom and encouragement.

Love,

Catherine

GREAT BRITISH SEWING BEE CHRISTMAS SPECIAL

Did you watch it? It was nice to see all the semi-finalists and winner again. Good to hear they had been busy, especially Lauren who opened an haberdashery. How brilliant! Actually, she's the one who made the most attractive gift of them all with her doll house.

Lauren's shop in Moseley Village, Birmingham http://www.guthrie-ghani.co.uk/

Home-made gifts indeed are not for everyone. However, one Christmas I was so short of money I made Barbie dolls clothes for my daughter. Whole sets, packaged like the commercial ones, it was so attractive that she thought it came from the shop.

I think people appreciate that sort of gift only if they think you are exceptionally talented at what you're doing. If they think you're an artist and want a well-crafted, attractive item, they'll be pleased to get one you've made especially for them. Otherwise, it is more of an embarrassment  than anything else, especially for men. The gardening belt featured in the programme may cause some unwelcome reactions, as the Guardian TV columnist pointed out in today's G2. Poor bloke!

In contrast, I really like the bag Stuart made for his boyfriend. However, I got lost in his instructions, but the result was great. I hope his man will appreciate.

Contrary to Kirsty Allsopp on Channel 4 whose personality (that whinny voice) I cannot abide, I love the unfussy and matter-of-fact presentation, the skills on show, the tutors and the whole atmosphere of the programme. I am looking forward to hear from them again soon.

If you want to watch it again, or if you've missed it, click: http://www.bbc.co.uk/i/b03mk8kb/
Hurry, only a few days left to watch.

SHOP SMALL WITH AMEX ON 7th DECEMBER

SHOP SMALL: great premise until you discover that the event is a marketing campaign dreamt up by none other than American Express. So unless the shopkeeper takes up the credit card, puts a sticker in his window advertising the fact and encourages shoppers who already have the card to spend it in his shop, the whole thing is waste of time.

I suspect that AMEX is simply surfing on a trend, people wanting to save the High Street and local independent shops. Mind you not any High Street or shops, as AMEX is not exactly your common plastic. Furthermore, there are a majority of businesses who do not take the card because of its high fees.

It is safe to say that this event will have a limited impact on the High Street and even less impact on sales of independent retailers and makers. I guess AMEX could be commanded by sniffing a trend and exploiting it, by making official that shopping away from the Internet, shopping malls or department stores is cool again.

However, there's still a long way to go...
                    VS    
On Sunday 24th November, I set up a stall at my local community library. Friern Barnet Library became famous in its fight against its closure last year by Barnet Tory Council. After a successful occupation the Council backed down and let volunteers run the library. I supported the cause and was eager to participate in a new event which could gain the committee some cash and create a buzz.

The event was advertised as a Table Top Sale which in turn I advertised on the local social network Street Life https://www.streetlife.com/. I'd encourage anyone to join. Not knowing exactly who'd turn up, I brought kids clothes by top labels like Mini Boden , Monsoon,GAP,  a Wii console, designer bags, DVDs. I also brought my own handmade Vive la République goods and greeting cards for potential Christmas presents.

I made a lot of money. With the second-hand stuff. None with my own handmade items. People admired them, but didn't buy any. To be fair, I made one positive contact with a man who owns a shop in the City. Exactly where I ought to sell my goodies. Because outside a few places where people have cash and appreciate craft, there's little chance to sell to anybody else.

People have been conditioned in such a way than even rubbish made in China is more trustworthy than something locally produced and priced accordingly. The whole system has turned on its head. An old lady selling hand knitted baby clothes didn't sell any. I was told of a fashion designer who had a stall of similar items at another event didn't sell any either.

So what's left? Being drowned in the cacophony of makers/sellers on e-commerce sites like Etsy, Big Cartel for the US, and Folksy, Notonthehighstreet? for GB. Let's see what they offer:    

• Launched 18th June 2005 in the US. Took its name from Fellini's film 8 1/2 "because they kept saying "etsi" which means "oh, yes", or "and if" in Latin". 
• Sells handmade or vintage items (minimum 20 years old), supplies, as well as unique factory-manufactured items under Etsy's new guidelines, since October 2013 worldwide.
• 30 million users are registered on the website and by the end of 2013, projections of one million sellers and over US$1 billion in total annual transactions have been announced.
• In order to sell products on Etsy, users must create a username and have the option to create a shop name. The username cannot be changed once created. 
• Creating a shop on Etsy is free, however each listing that is posted in the shop costs $0.20. Each listing will remain on the shop's page for 4 months, or until someone buys the product. The sale prices of products are determined by the shop owner, but Etsy claims 3.5% of the sale price of each listing. Shop owners are sent a bill at the end of every month containing the fees they owe, and they have until the 15th day of the following month to pay the Etsy bill.
• Sellers can add tags to their products to help buyers find them, and buyers can choose to search for items available locally.
• They benefit from regular tips and tutorials via e-mails.
• https://www.etsy.com/uk/your/listings?ref=si_your_shop

             

• Founded in 2005 in the US, it represents over 400, 000 independant artists worldwide, including musicians and music labels.
• Big Cartel has 4 price plans, from 5 products (free), up to 300, paid by automated monthly payments. They do not charge for any listing or per transactions fees.
• The shop dashboard is much simpler to use than other e-commerce websites.
• http://vivelarep.bigcartel.com

    

• Launched in 2008 as modern British craft e-commerce site with over 15,000 sellers. 
• Two selling options: you can either pay as you go, they charged 0.15p per listing excl. VAT for 120 days. Or unlimited free listing for £45 per year + 6% commission on sales.
• You can sell handmade items and supplies. No vintage. You must reside in the UK.
• Free pack of Moo business cards and access to Fred Aldous craft supply shop with 25% discount on first order and 10% for life thereafter.
• https://beta.folksy.com/shops/vivelarepublique                                                

• Founded in the UK in 2006. 3000 creative businesses, 50,000 products, many personalised.
• You must apply first as they only work with shops that fit their vision. Which means less competition. Must be based in the UK, although international seller can register their interest.
• Two million unique visitors per month.
• Marketing mix support, including TV ads and printed catalogue. 
• £199.00 joining fee and 25% commission on sales, excl. VAT. Unlimited listings.
• http://www.notonthehighstreet.com/

• Asos the online fashion website is hugely popular and the largest in the UK with 60,000 branded and own label products. They also have created Asos Marketplace where you can buy and sell new, pre-owned or vintage fashion. There are two types of accounts, one for individual – Wardrobe – which is free; the other for small labels - Boutique – at a fee.
• Wardrobe is best for individuals, free, up to 100 listing, 5% commission.
• Boutique is suited to small businesses, with a fee of £20 per month, unlimited listing and 20% commission.
• https://marketplace.asos.com/

 

I wish you very good luck with your business if you decide to launch your shop online. On Monday 25th November, The Guardian G2 published an article about working from home, it's a good read and includes women making fashion and selling online.

Please let me know if you have any comment or experience to share, I'd like to hear from you.
 

Please, like us on Facebook. Thank you.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Vive-la-R%C3%A9publique/747999408550118?ref=hl#!/pages/Vive-la-R%C3%A9publique/747999408550118

60'S SEWING SET

I bought this very attractive 60's inspired cotton with sewing themed design, thinking I could do something with this. There was only one obvious thing to make: a swingin' sewing set. It includes a sewing bag, a pin cushion and a needle book.
I already had something similar, so I thought I could create one for my customers.
It is great for yourself, but also as a gift for someone you'd like to encourage taking up sewing.

As usual it is on sale in my on-line shop: http://www.folksy.com/shops/vivelarepublique

Please don't forget to click on Like on my new Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Vive-la-R%C3%A9publique/747999408550118?ref=hl

If you want to make your own, here's some instructions:

MATERIAL AND INSTRUCTIONS

Sewing bag:
21cm x 30cm cotton fabric
19cm zip

Overlock the fabric for the sewing bag. You don't need to for the other items.
Fold 1 cm at the top of the sewing bag, pin on right side of zip.
Open zip and sew.
Fold the fabric the wrong side up, sew both sides.
Cut excessive fabric off each corner.
Put bag inside out. Push corners out with the help of a chopstick or similar.
Pin unstitched side of zip on top of fabric on opposite side. Sew zip. Press.
 
Pin cushion:

The dimensions of the material will depend on the thickness of your piece of foam. For mine, I cut 3 squares of foam that I stacked, making a cube of 8cm x 8cm x 4cm.

You need to make a pattern of two squares and four sides depending on the thickness of your cushion in the following order: one (bottom 1) square, one (front a) side, one (top 2) square, one (back b) side, and two (left c/right d) sides at the sides of the top square. Your pattern will look like a T. Do not forget to allow 1cm fabric on all sides, cut at each corner 2mm from corner.

Sew on the wrong side as follows:
Top of cube: sew b with c, sew b with d. Sew c with a, sew d with a.
Bottom of square: fold bottom 1, sew a with c, sew a with d. Sew c with 1, sew d with 1.
Turn cube inside out. Push corners out with the help of a chopstick or similar.
Put your foam inside cube.
Finish by sewing 1 to b by folding 1cm fabric on each edge, and sewing together as close to the border as possible.

Needle book:

18cm x 18cm cotton fabric
11cm x 7cm felt
one snap fastener

Fold your square in two on the wrong side.
Sew one short side and long side.
Turn inside out. Push corner out with the help of a chopstick or similar.
Fold 1cm fabric inside on each side and sew as close to the border as possible. Press.
Allow 2cm to fold over the opposite side. Fix snap fastener inside the folder and back of book, taking care of not showing stiches on the upside.
Fold book in two from the snap fastener/2cm onwards. Mark the middle.
Pin felt, middle against middle. Sew.

MOCK CROC CARD COLLECTION

JUST TO SAY...

Adding to my last post, I made another collection of cards. These have the advantage of being generic with "Just to Say..." written by hand in ink. You can send them for any occasion, a birthday, a thank you, or to say sorry (I think they'd cheer up anyone).

 

MY INSPIRATION

I bought a bunch of great textured paper at the Twisted Threads show which were perfect for the shoe cards I make. Instead of using lace or silk ribbon, these shoes needed something bolder and dipping into my extensive ribbon collection, I came up with a modern version.

It is perfect for any girl with a passion for fashion and accessories. Very chic! The design itself is largely inspired by Andy Warhol's shoes and handwriting (all done by his mum apparently!)
The four cards are on sale on folksy

 

PAPER, LACE AND RIBBONS

I collect fabric, lace and ribbons, but also anything with an interesting print like paper. So next to my boxes of material, I have bags of rolls of paper. Combining both is an interesting challenge that many artists have met by creating items with paper usally made from fabric or vice versa.

 

So I have created greeting cards for all occasions which always sell well at craft fairs. The secret to make successful cards lies in the design, the theme which will appeal to all. Once you get it right, everything follows.

 

Then you need a range of interesting paper, ribbons, lace, buttons or anything to do with sewing. There are some interesting creations made from cutting pages of books and sewing them together in patterns. However, I am not comfortable with the idea of cutting up books, which are sacred to me. Maps can be an interesting alternative too.

You may use fabric and sew it directly onto the card with a sewing machine using large stitches. It looks lovely and very effective, but it's a lot of work. Obviously, when making commercial items, you ought to bear in mind how long it takes you to make the card and if it's worth the effort; people will not buy cards which cost beyond what they are prepared to pay for a small item.

You can leave the cards blank or write a message. For this, I use a nib and ink, but you could make a collage in a ransom-letter style, or anything you can think of.

 

To make cards you need:
Card, Cartridge or watercolour paper
Interesting paper, old books or maps
Lace, ribbons or small buttons
Glue
Sharp blade to insert lace or ribbon
Nib and ink
Glitter glue, sequins

You can buy these cards via my on-line Folksy shop.

FROM CLUB TO CATWALK: LONDON FASHION IN THE 80'S

                         
I nearly didn't go to this latest exhibition at the V&A. I was already living in London at that time and remember clothes designers used to make then well, but it wasn't my scene at all, and I hated most of it.
Unlike today, fashion was still created by youth itself and young designers who were part of the club scene. It had a direct link with music, lifestyle and DIY punk ethics. However, it was very cliquey and if you didn't share the same taste in music and go to these clubs which were rather elitist, you were cast out as a dinosaur (already!) stuck in punk or worse, victim of the strong mod-skinhead 60's revival, which was my case.

Fashion was outrageous, silly, glam, unwearable and sexless. The fabrics were mostly stretch jersey, Lycra, anything shiny like vinyl or metallised. They were a lot of experimentation with painted fabrics in tribal design. Silhouettes were deconstructed, exaggerated or showing of the body never seen before. Out of these trends emerged the brilliant Body Map and their two-tone graphic designs on stretch jersey and frilly knitwear. They invented the modern silhouette with body hugging jersey tops, mini skirts and leggings. I remember buying a round vinyl shoulder bag printed with their iconic two-tone star. They have created a beautiful top based on their archives for the exhibition priced £95 you can purchase at the exhibition shop.

  

Vivienne Westwood also made an impact on the period, notably with the mini crini and the corset, which are still valid to this day. John Galliano produced his first collection and a number of well-known designers still in business are also on display. Most notably Katherine Hamnett put large political or eco slogans on T-shirts which may have been inspired by Punk but made an impact on the catwalk for the first time.

My problem with the V&A is the lack of interaction and the deadening effect of the museum environment which effectively kills all the freshness and impetuousness of those vibrant creations. The Textile and Design Museum can organise the same kind of thing ten times better. The whole thing feels stiff and contrived.

I can't help thinking that a "Tracey Emin treatment" would be more appropriate to show that kind of clothing. After all, we all used to live in squats, make clothes ourselves or buy them at Kensington Market, party in them, sit on floors, throw them on beds or at the bottom of wardrobes. They were never made to be shown in museums this way. I cannot get used to the fact that now you can only see them from afar outside the context they were meant to be worn.

Entrance fee: £5. Until 16 February 2014
http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/exhibitions/exhibition-from-club-to-catwalk-london-fashion-in-the-80s/visitor-and-ticket-information/

MEN'S "LORD OF THE MANOR" CUSHIONS

Description

Stuck when it comes to make a present for the man in your life (or your dad, brother or boss)?These two cushions sold separately, are ideal men’s gifts. They are 40x40, handmade appliqué coat of arms on wool. Made with felt, antique buttons, ribbons, military patches and chains, they are unique and will please any man with a taste for history. Make sure you indicate which one of the two you want to purchase (roses or leaves). These cushions have been treated with textile sealant to prevent stains and dirt.

Inspiration

Men are notoriously difficult to please when it comes to presents. So I thought why not ally a male interest in history with home accessories, traditionally the domain of women? I also collect buttons and ribbons, and together with historic and military imagery, I thought of producing appliqué cushions which could attract fans of Game of Thrones and The Tudors with coats of arms and roses, crowns and chains. Men are hardly catered for when it comes to home decoration, but these cushions will guarantee to make any man happy, matching their interests with a gift with real originality specially made for them in mind.
ON SALE
These cushions are on sale separately in my on-line shop @ £37 each through Folksy or $55 each through Etsy.

MADE IN BRITAIN

Glass and metal corporate look for rag superstore

UNMADE IN BRITAIN

Whilst travelling on the upper deck of a bus through Oxford Street, I saw the truly ugly side of British retailing. Where music stores used to trade, cheap and unremarkable clothes brands have replaced them. However, these superstores don't participate to British culture. If anything they devalue it by flooding the country with standardised clothes made abroad. There's nothing British, original or well-made with quality here, just uniforms for a mass international market which doesn't distinguish between the consumer in Madrid, Berlin or London.

What colour for your uniform?

DISASTROUS IMAGE
                                
I was looking at huge glass façades of plain T-shirts and shorts with no more character than uniforms for a docile consumer who'd buy anything as long as the picture is big enough to lure them inside with the cheapest price tags imaginable. There's nothing to be proud of, especially when you know the amount of misery and even death these labels cost, in human, environmental and financial terms. Furthermore, is that all London has to exhibit to tourists? Oxford Street is ugly enough and not the best London architecture can offer, but I wonder if the Mayor has taken a trip recently through the most commercial street of the capital. If this is what London is all about it is disastrous.

Ragmania hysteria

FASHION UNCONSCIOUS
                                             
Cheap clothes are not always bought because people can't afford more expensive clothes. They are bought on a weekly basis by people who can ill-afford them to look like celebrities, and think nothing of piling cheap and nasty clothes in their closets, wearing them a few times before burying them under even more cheap and nasty stuff. People don't buy music anymore, they buy rags instead. Deaths abroad, ever decreasing fashion cycles, problematic landfills or negative balance of commerce don't mean anything to them.

FIGHT BACK

The recent catastrophes in clothes factories in Bangladesh may have rattled some people, but too few to dent the appetite for these labels and superstores. However, there is trend to encourage the consumer with a conscience to buy British, and designers to manufacture in Britain. Here's some websites to help navigate what's currently on offer if as a consumer or as designer you are interested in buying or manufacturing British:


Labour Behind the Label is a pressure group who grades fashion brands. Click here to see how your favourite label scores: http://www.labourbehindthelabel.org/campaigns/itemlist/category/250-company-profiles


Website devoted to the promotion of products manufactured in Britain. You can add your product to their listings with a one-off fee of £25.
Visit: http://www.stillmadeinbritain.co.uk/


Make It British is devoted to British made-brands and UK manufacturing. You'll find a dierectory to guide you whether  wheryou're looking at buying or manufacturing as a designer. You can also feature your product. They have successfuly campaigned for a logo for british-made products which will be launched in September at London design Week.
Visit: http://makeitbritish.co.uk/


This is this the database of the UKFT, the UK Fashion and Textile association, the voice of the industry, with practical support and advice.
Visit: http://www.ukft.org/letsmakeithere/

LONDON FABRIC HABERDASHERY SHOPPING

Where fashion designers go to buy fabric in London? And film costumiers? Where do you find the right trimmings for a hat? And who sell feathers and sequins?
 
When it comes to buy fabric and haberdashery in London, I find that no website offers a complete and personalised list of suppliers.

So I compiled adresses which I have visited personnally in order to offer a range of suppliers wherever you live in London.

Obviously, you may know a good local shop you wish to tell others about. In that case, please contact me and I'll add it to my page.

For those who don't live in London, I've given website addresses when shops sell on-line so you won't feel left out.

I am preparing similar pages for Brighton and Paris.

Happy shopping!

DARN IT & STITCH

Great interview about an haberdashery owner in Oxford in the latest on-line Crafty magazine. How she went from a market stall to opening a shop and offering workshops. Extremely inspiring.



http://www.craftymag.com/item/302-chatting-with-darn-it-stitch

PARIS HABERDASHERY

Entrée des Fournisseurs
8 rue des Francs-Bourgeois, Paris 3ème

Whilst walking through Paris, I came across a great haberdashery Entrée des Fournisseurs in the Marais. The shop is situated in the famous street rue des Francs-Bourgeois, in a beautiful courtyard. They sell trimmings, fabrics and everything you'd expect from a shop of this kind, including an amazing range of antique buttons. Well worth a visit. They also have an on-line shop: http://www.entreedesfournisseurs.fr/

LABOUR BEHIND THE LABEL

Some big fashion labels have signed an agreement to improve and oversee good working conditions in textile factories abroad. Labour Behind The Label is a charity who fight for the rights of the workers victim of malpractice.

Their Let's Clean Up Fashion will tell you what commitments big companies have made towards ethical fashion production. Expect some surprising offenders (Paul Smith: 0!).

Participe to their campaings to support textile workers abroad. The more petitions we sign, the more pressure we can put on labels. Before more deaths occur.

Please visit their site www.labourbehindthelabel.org

MUSWELL HILL VINTAGE MARKET

My stall at the Muswell Hill Vintage Market yesterday 11th May